Wooden Clock Wheel Cutting - Bandsaw Pinions

Here is a great video with detailed instructions on how to cut small clock pinion gears from plywood using a band saw -- an alternative to the more commonly used scroll saw. I own this small, well-rated, affordable benchtop bandsaw.

The craftsman in the film uses a fairly wide band saw blade -- 3/8 inch perhaps. Despite its large sized, he shows how to used a series of straight cuts and the front of the blade to nibble away and tight and curved area.

He does turn to the scroll saw, not for cutting, but for filing the edges of the pinion smooth. He mounts a needle file into the scroll saw. You can also buy files designed to fit in the scroll saw.

The video also shows how to use a benchtop disk sander to create round spacers and how to best glue the parts together with white PVA glue.

This is the kind of education you can only get by watching someone with experience.

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Screw & Bold Removers, Screw Extractors & Plugs

I hate to admit it, but even I mess up sometimes. A lot, actually. I use mostly brass screws, and they can strip easily if I use a cordless drill to drive them. Here are two options for saving the day. I own both. I NEED both.

The first is the ProGrabit Screw and Bolt Remover. I use this piece when I have stripped the head of a phillips head screw. This 3 piece kit contains everything you need to remove screws (sizes 4 thru 14) and small bolts.

To use it you, place the appropriate sized extraction tool in you drill in and run it in reverse to create a cavity in the screw or bolt head. You then flip the extraction tool in your drill so that the screw end can be inserted into the cavity. Again, running the drill in reverse, you back-out the screw or bolt.

The second option is the Cut-around Screw Extractor. I use this when I have snapped the screw head off of the screw completely.

You simply chuck this miniature hole saw into your drill, center it over your broken screw, then cut a plug out of the wood with the embedded broken screw in it.

When finished, you have a nice clean hole where your mistake once was. You can then plug the hole with standard size dowels or plugs cut with a tapered plug cutter. Cutting your own plugs will allow you to match the wood type, color and grain closely if you have some scraps from which to cut the plugs.

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Aging an Authentic Working Wood Catapult Kit

This is the second in a two part series reviewing the working wood catapult model made by Pathfinders. In the the first part, I reviewed the the kit and gave you some assembly tips. In this part, I'll tell you how I went about making the catapult look like it truly belongs on a medieval battlefield.


What is the Kit and Where Do You Get It?
The catapult kit is sold by ThinkGeek.com by the name of "Wooden War Engine Kits". ThinkGeek.com offers more than one model; this article refers to the one advertised as "Catapult Kit". It sells for $19.99.

Getting Ready to Get Old
Once the kit is assembled, you should have a bit of fun testing it out. I recommend throwing small grapes at a pyramid of empty aluminum cans. If you would like to make your catapult look old, read on. For this process, I used the following tools and materials:

* Carving knife
* Small wire brush
* Furniture finish touch-up markers
* Coarse twine
* Elmer's glue
* Sandpaper - 100 grit
* Minwax wood stain - Early American
* Round wooden disks
* Wooden wheel pegs
* Popsicle type "craft" sticks
* Soldering iron with wood-burning tip
* Gun bluing
* Portable hand drill
* Ball-peen hammer

None of these things are essential. You should feel free to use whatever tools and materials you have on hand or can obtain easily.

Making the Catapult's Wood Beams Look Old
The first thing I did was removed the string and washers from the model.

I used a carving knife to take the corners off of the straight edges of the wood. I didn't remove a lot of material because I didn't want to compromise the strength of the wood.

I just shaved off small, irregular shavings to make it look a little less perfect and perhaps as if the beams had been hand-hewn. I also rounded the spoon-shaped end of the throwing arm.

Next, I added the wood knots to the beams. I have a set of three wood finish touch up markers. I used the second darkest color. By gently resting the very tip of the marker on the unfinished wood, pigment from the marker is drawn into the wood fibers in a way that looks something like a real wood knot. Use the underside of the model to perfect your technique.

The knots may look a little too dark at this point, but don't worry. After placing knots of various sizes on the beams, I gave the entire model a coat of Minwax wood stain. I used "Early American" simply because I had some around. You can use whatever color you like, so long as it is considerably lighter than the knots you have made with the marker. This allows the knots to show through the stain. At this point, you should give your catapult some time to dry.

Later, I used a wire brush to give the catapult some scratches and wear marks to make it look like it had been used for years. I also used a wood-burning tool to add some grain lines and cracks to some of the beams. Make sure these lines follow the grain of the wood so that they appear natural.

I dipped the the string that comes with the kit in the Minwax and wiped the excess off with a rag. This makes the "rope" look old too.

Adding the Twine to the Crossbar and Throwing Arm
I am not sure if it is authentic or not, but I thought some cordage wrapped around the throwing arm and crossbar would look good. I also figured this would provide a bit of cushioning. I used a coarse three strand twine for this. I unraveled the strands so that I had a single strand. I tied one end of twine around the crossbar.

Next, I spread some Elmer's glue on the section where the twine was to be placed. I then wrapped the twine in a tight coil around the crossbar. I tied off the end and put a drop of glue on it to keep if from coming off.

This process was repeated on the throwing arm where it meets with the crossbar.

Making the Wooden Wheels for Your Siege Engine
I purchased a set of round hardwood discs that are 2 - 3/4 inches in diameter. I also purchased some wooden toy axle pegs and some craft sticks -- really they are just Popsicle sticks. All three items can be found at craft stores.

I used a soldering iron with a flat wood burning tip to create parallel lines on the wheels to make it seem as if they were constructed from individual planks. I also burned the edges of the wheels a bit to simulate wear and wood grain.

Next, I glued two short lengths of Popsicle sticks to the outside of each wheel to model the boards that would hold the wheels together.

I drilled a 1/4 inch hole in the center of each wheel and in the four corners of the catapult base. I sanded flat sides on the axle pegs and darkened them with marker.

Using the toy axle pegs, I mounted each wheel to the catapult. I glued only the holes into which the pegs go, so the wheels can move freely. Finally, I gave the wheels a coat of wood stain.

Finishing Touches to The Antiqued Catapult
The catapult was starting to look pretty old at this point, but the bright metal washers on the outside ruined the effect. I used the rounded end of a ball-peen hammer to dent one face of each washer. I then rubbed some gun bluing on the surface to give it a dark, oxidized look. DO NOT get this stuff on your tools.

In the end, I spent 30 to 40 minutes making the basic functioning catapult kit, and 4+ hours making it look old! I had a lot of fun doing it.

Where to Get the Kit and Other Supplies
Most of what you need can be found at your local hardware store, craft store, or hobby shop. If you have any difficulty finding these items locally, here are some online sources:

* Catapult kit
* Wood carving knife
* STEEL SCRATCH BRUSH
* Sharpie Touch up Markers - 3 pack
* Sisal Twine
* Elmer's Glue-All
* 100 Grit Sanding Sheets
* Minwax Wood Finish - Early American
* Wood toy wheels
* Wood toy wheel axle pegs
* Cuisipro Frozen Pop Sticks
* Woodburning and soldering tool set
* Perma Blue, liquid gun blue kit
* Cordless drill
* Ball peen hammer

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Build Hidden Compartments into Wooden Drawers

This post may seem a little off-topic, but I'm going to justify it because a) it's about woodworking, b) it's mechanical in nature, and c) it's just plain cool.

Who doesn't love trap doors and hidden compartments?

This is a short, but useful article describing a few different ways to build hidden compartments into chests, bureaus, jewelry boxes, or even cabinets built into a wall.

Here's the article on Building Hidden Drawers courtesy of Woodcraft.com.

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Steps to Fix Your Broken Portable Power Tools

When a power tool stops working, a broken electrical part is the likely culprit. Don't throw that tool away! Fix it! Better yet, pull one out of someone else's trash and bring it back to life.

Though there is a huge variety of electric power tools, the basic electrical components -- cords, switches and brushes -- are similar regardless of the tool's purpose or manufacturer.

From the article:
"(The) procedure for tracing problems begins with testing and examining wires, then switches and finally brushes. The only special tool you will need is a multi-tester, available from an electronics shop for about $25. With it, a host of problems can be traced right to the source. Many electrical components on power tools can be replaced for $20 or less if you do the repair work yourself."

Here's a link to the article, Basic Repairs for Portable Power Tools

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Easily & Safely Cut Small Parts on the Table Saw

In previous posts, I mentioned the value of having miniature power tools for small scale projects. I find them to be less intimidating and more appropriately scaled for small scale work. They are also great space-savers if your shop space is limited.

But what about using traditional woodworking tools? You may already these tools or want to buy them to work on full-scale home and woodworking projects. You can still cut small pieces on full size tools with some proper planning and helpful jigs.

One such jig is the one shown here. This simple sled allows you to use a full size table saw to rip very thin pieces of stock safely, easily, and uniformly.

The sled is simply a piece of melamine that been ripped to a 10-in. width. After ripping the sled to width, a small block is glued on it to act as a hook to hold and push the material being cut.

Take a look a the full article on the Small Parts Sled from the folks at Woodworkers' Journal. [Thanks Charles!]

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Miniature Workbench to Work on Small Parts

Working on miniatures or any small part can present a unique set of challenges. Sometimes the job requires small tools. Other times, you just need a way to hold the piece so you can work on it in comfort and safety.

Here is a solution that I wish I had thought of years ago.

This little bench is 13-1/2" high with a 1" x 3-1/2 x 8" top. You can't really see them in the photo, but the top has a row of nine 1/8" x 5/16" miniature dog holes. The whole thing can be clamped in a vise or to the surface of a larger bench. The third option, shown here, is to sit on the splayed wings that form the base. Two bolts in the top act as screws for the wooden end vise.

Read more about this and more elaborate arrangements in this article on miniature workbenches.

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Work Sharp - PowerTool Sharpening System

I am always looking for the next new type of sharpening tool. Let me introduce you to the Work Sharp 3000.

The Work Sharp employs a spinning glass wheel on to which you have adhered an abrasive sheet. The "see-through" wheel allows you to look down to see what you are sharpening.

The sharpening port enables sharpening of 20, 25, 30, and 35 degree angle chisels and plane irons up to 2" wide without he use of a jig.

The unit is cooled with forced air and a heat sink allowing you to removal metal without affecting the steel's temper. This means you won't ruin your tools.

The Work Sharp 3000 comes with a 2 year manufacturer's warranty, 2 tempered float glass wheels, a see-through slotted wheel, top tool rest, a crepe stick, and PSA abrasive kit.

Head over to Woodcraft.com to check out the Work Sharp 3000

I see that Amazon also carries the Work Sharp 3000.

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Spyderco Sharpening Ceramic Stones

As some of you know, I am a advocate for sharp woodworking tools. Traditionally, fine woodworkers have used water stones. Other options include oil stones, abrasive papers, and more recently, diamond impregnated plates.

Water stones are messy (as they must be stored in water, used wet, and occasionally flattened). Likewise, oil stones require honing oil which can be a bother. Abrasive papers wear out (meaning there is a large hidden cost). Diamond stones are convenient because they only require a bit of water as lubricant and don't need flattening. They are, however, somewhat expensive.

Spyderco is now offering ceramic sharpening stones. These new ceramic stones seem to have everything going for them: no oil, no water, no wet storage, no flattening, no replacing paper. They require only the occasional cleaning with an abrasive kitchen cleaner (Comet, or the like). They are fairly affordable to boot!

Note that Spyderco has the traditional flat stones (right) for sharpening chisels, planes, jointer blades, and knives. In addition, they are have a set of specially shaped stones (left) for sharpening odd shaped carving tools.

Check out the new Spyderco Ceramic Sharpening Stones.

Here's a video on the product courtesy of Woodcraft Woodworking Supply.

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Quick Clamp Wrap - Clamps Odd Shapes

Developed for aerospace applications, this tape is made from an elastic silicone compound. It sticks to itself on contact and fuses permanently in a day. It grips almost anything and should not damage surfaces because it is inert.

Long used for automotive and home repairs, now woodworkers have discovered X-Treme Tape can function as an impromptu clamp for holding wood pieces during the gluing process. Even odd shaped pieces can be held because of the tacky nature of the tape.

This stuff is just plain good to have around in case of emergencies. It forms an air and water-tight seal, is heat-resistant up to 500 degrees F, and insulates up to 400 volts per mil. Wow.

Here's an article on X-Treme Tape from the Woodworker's Journal site.

Rockler Woodworking Supply sells X-Treme Tape Quick Clamp Wrap in 10 foot rolls for about $6.50. Keep this in mind as a stocking stuffer for the holidays.

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Master Pocket Hole Jig System - Wood Joinery

Are you inclined to make things yourself from wood, but are short on the skills required for complex wood joints? Are you an accomplished woodworker who just wants a faster way to make a variety of clean joints?

You've got to look into pocket hole joinery. The idea is simple: a jig and special drill bit allow you to drill an angled hole that both pre-drills the wood pieces and provides a recess for the screw head. Special pan-head screws hold the wood pieces together. This technique can be used to make a wide variety of wood joints -- even face frames.

Kreg is the leading brand and they offer systems from $50 to $140 -- all are highly rated. I bought the $50 version and now wish I had the case that comes with the $75 version. Note: you need screws of the right length to match your project.

The basic setup ($50) : Kreg R2 Rocket Pockethole System

The mid-range set ($75) : Kreg K3SP K3 Pocket Hole Jig Standard Pack

The deluxe set ($140, $120 with rebate) : Kreg K3MS K3 Master Pocket Hole Jig System

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Grizzly Drill-Powered Hobby Lathe

Here is an interesting tool that converts your 3/8" power drill into a miniature wood lathe.

The details on this tool are limited, but impressive for the price. It can accommodate work of up to 24 inches and 6 inches in diameter. That's pretty big, really.

At about $46.00, this could be a handy tool -- especially if space is limited or you just want to try out a lathe of your own on the cheap.

The funny thing is that a well-rated set of lathe chiselsmight cost you more than the lathe itself!

Check out the Grizzly H2669 Hobby Lathe

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Useful Tools - Reader Submissions

A dedicated Automata-enthusist and reader of The Automata / Automaton Blog wrote to me with a list of tools that he has found useful for making automata.

I've enumerated his list of tools, and provided several sources and variants for each.

1. Small Drill bit sets
   
• 20 Piece Wire Gauge Drill Set and 3-Jaw Micro Chuck from Rockler
  
• 20 piece drill set sizes #80 to #61 from Lee Valley
• 20 Piece High Speed Steel Jobber Drill Set in Steel Case,#61-#80 Numbered Drills from Amazon.com
• Mini Chuck and Wire Drills from Woodcraft
2. Wire Bender
• WIRE BENDING JIG, ALUM
  
• Wire bending jig from Lee Valley
• Strip and wire bending jig from Micro-Mark
  
3. Ultra-Thin Razor Saw
• Razor saws from Lee Valley
• Model-makers Razor Saw from Woodcraft
• Mini Saw and mitre box from Rockler
  

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How to Sharpen or Fix Broken Drill Bits

Over time, drill bits become dull and cease to cut effectively. Sharpening dull bits can improve the quality of your work, put less strain on your tools, and generally make drilling safer (since you can let the bit do the cutting, rather than applying force that can cause the bit to break). Sometimes, drill bits do break. You don't necessarily need to throw it out!

One option is to buy a Drill Doctor. These range from $50 for your Basic Drill Doctorto their $150 Professional Drill Bit Sharpener.

Here's an article on How to Sharpen Twist Drill Bits.

The article shows you how to freehand-sharpen a twist drill bits using a grinding wheel. While it's not too difficult, there are several important things one must know and do. In addition to learning the correct angles, the article explains the three distinct motions one must use while holding the bit against the grinding wheel.

1 - Move the bit to the left (grinding on the left edge only)
2 - Rotate the bit in clockwise rotation
3 - Move the bit downward

Read the full article on Resharpening drill bits, courtesy of Woodcraft woodworking stores.

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Woodshop Specialtes: Wood Gears & Marionettes

Here's a book that at first glance might not seem to be of much use to automata-makers, but not so!

There are three sections of this book that are of particular interest to automata makers (and woodworkers in general).

First, there is section on wooden clockworks. This section may only be 8 pages, but it is almost the only 8 pages I've found on wooden gears and their construction. This includes tips on cutting wooden circles, making pin wheels and pinions, and cutting slots for toothed gears.

Second, there are two sections on the construction of wooden marionettes/dolls. Take a good look at the work of Paul Spooner/Matt Smith or Keith Newstead. I would be willing to bet that they studied puppet-making as some point. You can see that they understand the human form, joints, and how to make them from wood.

I have only covered three sections of this book; there are two dozen more on diverse woodworking topics. At this price, Woodshop Specialtiesis a great resource.

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Scroll Saw Joinery

Scroll saws are great for cutting curves and complex shapes. Did you know you can also use the scroll saw for joinery?

Here's a really interesting that article shows you how to cut a variety of interesting joints on the scroll saw.

Read the article: Scroll Saw Joinery originally published in Scroll Saw Workshop magazine

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Miniature Table Saw - Amazing!

I recently bought some new tools. The first thing on my list was a miniature table saw. My full-sized Craftsman is going strong after forty or more years, but it often seems like too big of a saw for the pieces I cut for automata.

I did some research and bought the Micro-Mark version of what you see here (Proxxon). I am 99% sure that they are made by the same company for every detail is the same except that mine is black.

Simply put, these little table saws are amazing. The saw is very strong and precise. The saw is quite capable of cutting hardwoods and the speed can be adjusted for the material.

There are a variety of blades available including a carbide tipped, diamond, abrasive disks, and fine toothed slitting blades. There are also many fine accessories (rip fences, feather boards, cross-cut tables, tapering jigs) available. I comes with a basic rip fence and mitre slider.

Buying this saw had an added advantage...I was able to free up space by moving my full-size saw out of my primary work area because I need less often.

If you need a good saw, don't have a lot of space, or work with small pieces I think these miniature table saws are a great choice. I LOVE mine.

Check out all the the details on this Miniature Table Saw.

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The Automata / Automata Store - Updated!

I have updated a bunch of the books listed at The Automata / Automaton Store and added additional comments to the some of the titles.

I've selected books for automata-makers and collectors. Book topics include: automata-making, paper automata kits, the history of automata, mechanisms, woodworking, metalworking, animatronics, autonomous robots, whirligigs, puppets, wooden toys, mechanical toys, wooden puzzles, carving, and the engineering process.

Be sure to also check out the tools listed by category in the left side navigation.

Visit The Automata / Automaton Store to build you library or tool collection.

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Making Wooden Hinges

Here's a great article from Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts Magazine describing how to make hinges out of wood.

The article has complete step-by-step instructions with photos and a scale drawing that you can photocopy and use as your cutting template. The project assumes you have access to scroll saw.

Here's a link to the article: Make Wooden Hinges

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5 Great Tools for Generating Ideas

Having trouble coming up with ideas for your latest project? Here is a list of resources that are helpful for generating ideas, or coming up with creative new solutions to problems.

This is a classic little book on spurring creativity. This is also the author of A Kick in the Seat of the Pants

An illustrated deck of 64 creative thinking strategies. You might also be interested in Innovative Whack Pack

Learn to think like one of the most creative minds of all time! They also publish a workbook for this called The How to Think Like Leonardo da Vinci Workbook: Your Personal Companion to How to Think Like Leonardo da Vinci

Though he was never a good student, Einstein was wildly creative in his approach to problem-solving. He once said that creativity is more important than knowledge.

This is a physical object you interact with to create ideas. I'm not entirely sure how you use it, but it is such a different approach to creativity I can't help but believe it would help you come up with ideas.

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Nifty Retro Wood & Brass Measurer and Marker

I'll start by saying I don't have one of these...but I want one!

Granted, I am a sucker for the wood/brass combination, but this little gadget is just plain clever.

Stanley once made a tool called the No. 1 Odd Jobs tool -- that's what this tool is based on. It's a marvel of measuring and marking.

It can be used as a T-square and mitre square as seen at left.



Here it is shown being used to scribe an arc.




Here is is being used as a depth gauge to set the height of the blade on table saw.



Of course, you can use it as ruler too (it's maple with brass edges).

Check out all the details on the Odd Jobs Layout Tool. Oh...and order one for me!

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Box Joint or Finger Joint Jig for Wood Boxes

I am experimenting with something similar to this jig to make the boxes to hold automata mechanisms. While hand-cut dovetails are the joint of choice, box joints -- or finger joints as they are sometimes called -- offer an interesting alternative.

Box joints are very strong once glued because there is so much surface area for the glue to bond to. I think they look good too because the end grain alternating with the regular grain creates a nice pattern.

I'll let you know how my testing goes. If any of you have experience with box joints or box joint jigs, let me know. This one is used in conjuction with a table saw and dado blade or a router table.

This is one option, the WOODSMITH Aluminum Box Joint Jig at Woodcraft.com

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Mini Clamp-It Assembly Square Kit

I use these to assemble the boxes that house the automata mechanisms. The squares are thick so that the pieces clamped to it stay flat. The squares are also a strong plastic, so I don't worry too much about marring the wood. They also have little notches in them that allows the clamps to nest securely in them. At $35 they may seem pricey, but I sure am glad I have them, and the clamps can be used for other purposes.

Mini Clamp-It Assembly Square Kit Buy this kit and save $4.95 versus buying individual pieces separately! Includes everything needed to clamp two corners at time; comes with two Mini Clamp-It Assembly Squares and four 4" Mini Clamps. Mini Clamp-It Assembly Square Kit

The Mini Clamp-It can only be obtained in the Tools section of Rockler Woodworking.

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Automata-Makers: Add a Coin Mechanism

Here's a nice little article on how to add a coin activation mechanism to your automata. Find a public location for your masterwork (retail store, library, restaurant, etc.) and you may be able to put that automaton to work for you earning $$$.

This comes from Tim Hunkin of Cabaret Mechanical Theatre fame. He's the maker behind many of the larger interactive automata. He's also been a cartoonist and had a TV series called The Secret Life of Machines.

Check out the Coin-op tutorial [via] that is itself [via]

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